Overview – Natural Finish
Our Natural Finish is exactly how the part comes off the machine with no additional finishing processes applied. The raw state of the parts for all of our materials has a granular feel to it, much like that of an extra-strong mint. This is a result of the powdered polymers that the parts are made from.
This finish is best for quick draft models and prototypes, or internal, non-aesthetic components where items are more price-sensitive. It is also great for more delicate objects with walls under 1.5mm thick.
Often known as: Raw finish, natural finish, unfinished.
How much does it cost?
Free
There is no additional charge for this finish.
Maximum Part Size
300mm x 300mm x 600mm (Economy, Trade & Scheduled orders)
What Colours?
SLS PA12
MJF PA12 and SAF PA11 ECO
MJF PA12 and SAF PA11 ECO
Appearance and Finish
The natural finish is exactly how the parts come off the machine with no additional stages other than a clean. The natural surface finish is granular thanks for the powdered material that it is made from, and resembles the surface finish of an Extra Strong Mint.
Rougher finish – the least smooth surface finish we offer
Sharper edges – edges are sharper than our other finishes as there are no abrasive processes
Grey/white – MJF and SAF parts are grey, whereas SLS is white in their natural undeyed forms
Black parts can vary – Dyed black parts can vary slightly in relation to their depth of colour, and can score easily
Colour dyed SLS parts vibrant – Colour dyed natural parts can be more vibrant that polished parts
Natural is highly recommended for
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Draft models – Great for prototypes or quick turnaround one off models. - +
Affordability – No additional costs for the standard finish. - +
Delicate models – thinner walled and fine featured models are best suited to the natriual finish.
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Very large models – Some large models are too big to finish in our other post processes. - +
Speed – with no extra stages, there is less time required and less risk for your fast turnaround requirements. - +
Very fine details – small surface details are best preserved with the natural finish.
Examples of the Natural Finish
MJF PA12
SLS PA12 (PA2200)
SAF PA11 Eco
SLS TPU Flexible
How it works
When parts are removed from the 3D printers, they are encased in the powder that they were manufactured from. This powder is stuck, but not fused to the part. To remove the powder, we place parts inside our automated cleaning machines, the Dyemansion PowerShot C’s.
These machines fire glass media at the powder covered parts to remove any excess matter both externally and internally where they can reach. The machines are set to specific pressures and times depending on what material is being processed.
Risks
Damage
The process is less abrasive than our other finishes, however, thin, intricate or vulnerable geometries will still be at high risk of damage
Pins/Pegs
Small pins, or other protruding elements from the surface of parts can easily get damaged in the process. Filleting the base of pins can help reduce the risk as well, but does not eliminate it.
Trailing edges
Trailing edges can get damaged easily in the process. We do not recommend any print to have an edge that trails to zero regardless of finish, but if parts do have a trailing edge below 1mm, then damage is likely and not covered for a free reprint.
Small parts
Small parts below 10mm can easily get lost in the cleaning process. It is recommended to make contact with our team about any very small parts so we can advise on the best course of action. Lost parts often result in costly time delays to your order.
Scoring
Parts that are dyed black can score easily leaving unsightly marks in the surface of the parts. If you are after a more scratch resistant surface, we would recommend polishing, shotpeening or vapour smoothing as these are far more scratch resistant.
Talk to Andrew, our Head of Technical Sales, and discover how our services can save you time and money while achieving the highest quality prints.
Design Guidelines, Maximums and Minimums
Max Print Size
This is the maximum size we can print a part in one piece
300mm x 300mm x 600mm (SLS)
350mm x 350mm x 255mm (MJF)
290mm 190mm 270mm (SAF)
120mm x 120mm x 180mm (TPU)
Min Wall Thickness
This is the minimum wall thickness we can guarantee to print. You are able to print under this guarantee at your own risk, however, prints under our guarantee are not covered for a free reprint if damaged.
Thickness: 1mm (SLS, MJF, SAF) 2mm (TPU)
Min Embossed Thickness
This is the minimum thickness a surface detail can be – this includes text and small intricate details. Note the thickness stroke width, not the width of the entire letter if referring to text.
Width: 0.5mm
height: 0.3mm
Min Engraved Thickness
This is the minimum thickness a engraved surface detail can be – this includes text and small intricate details. Note the thickness stroke width, not the width of the entire letter if referring to text.
Width: 0.5mm
Depth: 0.3mm
Min Hole Sizes
This is the minimum diameter of a hole. As a rule of thumb, the longer the hole, the larger the diameter is required to prevent them from blocking with powder. It is best to avoid long and twisting holes as these are near impossible to clear the powder from post-print.
<2mm depth: 1mm
2-5mm depth: 2mm
5-10mm depth: 3mm
10mm+: at least 4mm
*Powder may not be able to be cleared out of holes longer than 30mm
Clearance
This is the minimum gap required between two separate parts that are designed to fit together, such as a case and a lid. This is the distance between surface faces – remember that this is each side meaning that you need to double this measurement if the whole part is interlocking. e.g. if a shaft is going into a hole, 0.15mm between surfaces means 0.3mm between diameters.
Tight fit: 0.15mm
Smooth fit: 0.25mm
Flat/Warpable Parts
Flat parts are prone to warping. Warping is where the part cools at different rates causing geometrical changes in the object. It is best to try to avoid these shapes where possible, or contact us to ask for advice.
Limitation: part dependant – ask us if you are concerned.
Min Sharp Angle
This is the minium angle recommended without a fillet or chamfer. Parts with sharp angles tend to get damaged in the print or post-processing stages. Anything sharper than the minimum angle is recommended to have a fillet.
Min Angle: 60°
Sharp Angle Fillet
Anything sharper than our minimum guaranteed angle is recommended to have a filleted edge. Filleted edges are far stronger than sharp edges and are less prone to damage in either post-processing or print stages.
Min Fillet: 1mm
Natural parts – Get an Instant quote using our online system
Grab a quote for our natural finish. Our Uploading System takes price breaks into consideration for higher quantities and is the fastest way to get a quote for your project.
Other finishing options available on our service
